New Orleans, part 2

My new buddies, "The Shit" of Faubourg Marigny

Anne Rice's former residence

A sobering reminder

Tee Eva's Creole Soul Food

Bruce and I returned to New Orleans from May 12 to 14, 2008. This time we stayed at The Frenchmen Hotel in Faubourg Marigny (we had stayed at a Holiday Inn last time, which was fine, but we wanted a more authentic experience this time around.) There is a lovely courtyard with a gorgeous little pool (though the jacuzzi smelled swampy). The rooms are tiny but clean, and the rates are very reasonable. Best of all, it is a stone's throw from the Quarter, yet put us in a neighborhood we might not have explored otherwise that is not to be missed. The Marigny's picturesque streets are lined with beautiful shotgun houses, many still bearing their spray-painted codes from Katrina's aftermath, reminiscent of tragedy like faded tattoos on the forearms of concentration camp survivors. Still, it is a bustling neighborhood with great bars, cafes and restaurants.

Besides walking all over the Marigny, we also took the St. Charles streetcar up to the Garden District. The homes there are unbelievable, just immense and classy and gorgeous. Of course we sought out Anne Rice's former house. We also checked out some of the shops along Magazine Street, most of which were way out of our league. Unfortunately I had only brought my Birkenstock sandals, which under every day circumstances are most comfortable, yet are not ideal for miles upon miles of walking at a stretch. My feet and legs were in agony, and so we still have a large chunk of this area to explore next time.

Of course, we spent a good bit of time in the Quarter again (why not?), mostly watching two fabulous bands. Ka-Nection Band plays regularly at Fat Catz @ 438 Bourbon, and they are so good we sat/danced through their set two nights in a row. We were also pleased to see Mo Jeaux again (we were practically the only ones in Funky 544 @ Bourbon & Toulouse one rainy Monday night in October, and Mo Jeaux still rocked the joint).

As for food, I finally got my first taste of a muffuletta from the famous Central Grocery. Oh my gosh, it was so good, and I'm not even a big fan of cold cuts. We also had a mouth watering shrimp Po Boy, red beans and rice, and oysters on the half shell. I got super excited when we came upon Tee Eva's on Magazine Street because I had seen her gumbo featured on Food Network, but I was disappointed to find that they had sold out of gumbo that particular day. Now I regret not getting one of her pies instead. Next time, for sure! I had iced cafe au lait at Cafe du Monde, which is very refreshing along with the requisite beignets, all perfectly delicious.

My mission on this trip was to get my hands on as many fertility good luck things as I could find in the Voodoo shops. My favorite place was Voodoo Authentica @ 612 rue Dumaine, where I got a fertility candle and gris gris bag. Hey, I'll try anything to help the process along!

It was a short but full trip. We had a wonderful time, and were very sad to leave. On our way out of town, we stopped at Sonic in the airport, because Baltimore does not have any Sonics, and we are tortured seeing their commercials on TV. They have pretty good grub for a fast food place, and really great shakes!

Though it may be a little while before we can make it back to the Big Easy, we talk about returning almost every day. New Orleans has a permanent place in my heart.